SAVILE ROW? NO, CHEO!

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Years ago there was a window on East 60th Street, 30 E 60th Street to be exact. In that window, there was always a covert wool chesterfield coat draped on a dress form. In the summer months it would be a seersucker jacket on the same form. These were distinct garments that did not resemble anything that other retail windows in the neighborhood had to offer. That same chesterfield just standing prominently in the window year after year. There was a mystique and beauty to it. Anyone with any interest in clothing would want to look beyond the coat on the form, for beyond the chesterfield, was an elegantly dressed Asian gentleman, toiling around a table with scissors, chalk, and a ruler.

The Asian gentleman cutting on that table was Korean born master tailor Mr. Chewoo Park. And, yes, Mr. Cheo trained on Savile Row with, among others, Anderson & Sheppard.

Some of the rather fine garments that Cheo has turned out through the years could be dead ringers for Anderson & Sheppard. Everything from the soft canvasing and drape, delicate needle work, shifted darts, non roped shoulders, and white sleeve lining with patterned three navy stripes all reflect a tailor who adheres to a Savile Row aesthetic.

Although that window no longer features the work of Cheo, he still cuts at 30 East 60th Street, but now he’s moved upstairs. In his prime, Mr. Cheo was part of a trinity of Savile Row transplants who decided to set up shop in New York City. Along with Bernard Weatherill and Leonard Logsdail, Mr. Cheo offered an authentic Savile Row suit.

Mr. Cheo is a proper bench tailor. A true cutter and pattern drafter. If his buttonholes were ever done off premises, they are consistently done by a Savile Row trained tailor. The buttonholes never vary and are done in a manner that is consistent and true to the Row. Cheo’s garments are elegant, very refined, and quite expensive. His patterns are precise. Out of all the New York tailors I’ve evaluated through the years, his work has never wavered and it is always pleasing to my eye.

Aside from the cut, drape, and finish, Cheo’s trim is authentic and proper British detailing. The under collar is in correct wool flannel gauze, a staple on the Row, as are the beveled genuine horn buttons and the crisp taffeta lining.

This jacket is a wonderful example of Cheo’s work. Mr. Cheo turns out jackets with more standard placed darts, as well as darts that are shifted to the side seams in the style of Anderson & Sheppard. Other cues to A&S is the shoulder, which is very soft and has no roping to the sleeve head. The other features that has elements of A&S is the notch and the higher roll on the three button. Generally, Anderson & Sheppard three buttons have a high roll, although they can do three roll to two and half. In comparison to a previous blog where I featured an A&S Navy chalk stripe suit that shows the high three button roll, Mr. Cheo’s three button is a superb model of how the three button should be done, and in the A&S vein. The lapel rolls just upon the top hole. It meets the hole in a gracious manner, it’s not flat or dead, very natural. When not done properly, the three buttons is forced, it becomes a dead garment. A pert buttonhole also enhances the aesthetic.

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