Is this the most perfect shoulder of all-time? Well of course it’s open to debate. But I’ve seen them all, in their glory. Shoulders with roll, no roll, Spalla Camicia, Spalla Insellata, the pagoda, and on and on. They all have their place, and at times, can all be elegant. But for me, the search for perfection requires something beyond. The shoulder should never scream out, should never be contrived, and never be costume.
This divine shoulder speaks volumes of what a shoulder should be. Not just aesthetically, but for comfort and to be part of one’s anatomy. This is one of the greatest jackets ever, and the shoulder is what makes it. All the honors go to Maestro A. Follino of Padua. Here the bodice and the sleeve are two equal values. One part does not overlap the other. They meet at the seam, which in essence is not unique, but here the sleeve head kisses the bodice. There is no padding, the natural shoulder of the wearer creates the subtle lift. If one runs their finger on the interior of the shoulder cap they will see how supple and alive the sleeve head actually is. If you add a little pressure and pull the sleeve from the bodice, then you will see the divine hand stitches join them together.
Next, there’s the collar which is essentially the key to the shoulder. It holds to the neck, and creates a slope that follows the natural line of the shoulder. Standard fare collars are skimpy, too short, and create a gap from the shirt collar, which is very unpleasing. Surprisingly, I’ve seen some of these on bespoke suits.
Simply put this jacket has a proper collar.
The cut of the jacket is equally well thought out, and done in a luxurious dense silk herringbone weave. There is no vertical front dart. The seam under the arm slants with a slight curve towards the front quarter ending just below the opening of the patch pocket. Not only is this visually pleasing, but this seam also gives contour without a nipped look. This feature is very natural and respectful to the wearer.
This is indeed a properly made jacket in every respect. Properly made in the sense there is nothing extraneous. Every detail has a purpose, and every detail is executed by hand. There are only three straight stitches finished by machine. That’s it. Everything else is as it should be. Finished by the hands of a beautiful human being, one person, working on one jacket, for one person. A sartorial marriage made in heaven.