E. GALARDI E FIGLIO FIRENZE: MASTERWORK

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How does one define a Florentine jacket? Some may say the one distinction is the front darting, or lack there of. On several jackets that I have seen from Florence the front darts are shifted more to the side seams, similar to Anderson & Sheppard. The Florentine sartoria Liverano & Liverano incorporates this styling.

Not all jackets from Florence lack darts, or have shifted darts. So what distinguishes a Florentine suit from one from Milan or Rome? First it’s the canvassing. A thinner, lighter canvas makes for a more fluid, more reactive lapel.

The shoulders are slightly different as well. Slightly rounded, delicate padding, and a subtle puckered roping to the sleeve head. Some of the less formal jackets can almost have a Neapolitan like shoulder, but certainly have their own DNA.


The lapels are distinct with a perfect fish mouth notch. The pick stitching on the lapel edges, barchetta beast pocket and pocket edges is closer with many more picks per centimeter than many of the sartoria contemporaries. This is understated elegance, a gentleman’s suit, no extraneous detailing, just what is needed executed to perfection.

The fabric is a lovely mid-weight worsted cashmere in a herringbone weave.

Considering the 1974 execution of this suit, Galardi E Figlio did not succumb to what became a decade of sartorial abomination. Style and elegance being timeless is not a cliché, it’s a reality.

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Yet another hand made suit, as mentioned previously “hand made” is such a loose term. The truly great hand mades are indeed that, completely, except for the straight stitched. And yes. No merrowing allowed.

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Perfect fish mouth notch.

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Barchetta.

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Pure silk lining panels set in by hand.

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Three button sleeve cuff, generally standard fare, two functioning, one faux.

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H.R.H. patinated Henry Maxwell cap-toes.

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The ever romantic, as well as pragmatic button-fly front. Every step of the fly is executed by hand.

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Grosgrain hand tacked waistband with raised ribbing.

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Cotton tape anchors the interior hem.

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Inside leg seam allowance overcast by hand.

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