If I had to put an entry along with an image defining the Milanese jacket in the Oxford dictionary this example by Giuseppe Gorini would be a perfect candidate. It personifies the true, authentic Milanese aesthetic in both style and workmanship. This particular example was executed in the early 1960’s and did not succumb to the “60’s” look. It is elegant, refined and simply timeless.
The true Milanese jacket has minimal padding at shoulder, very natural unobtrusive, and accompanies a delicate roped sleeve head finishing at the shoulder edge, with no sagging or drop. The collar is shorter than the Neapolitan or Roman counterparts, and has slope. Three button, question as to 3 rolling to 2 ½ or 2, or higher in the case of this example is open to debate. But Gorini makes it natural with a slightly higher V giving it formality. The armholes are slightly lower, with a slightly fuller chest.
The gorge is always higher, generally has jetted bessom pockets with hand picked semi circles on the edges and side vented. The authentic Milanese jacket is understated, it is not convoluted and does not have any crossover style cues like some Milano/Napoli hybrids. The hand work is not decorative or loud.
The chest pocket is barchetta or boat shaped. Requisite three sleeve cuffs, functioning of course, and always vegetable corozo buttons.
This G. Gorini suit is a navy shadow stripe in a frecso wool. I love the contrasting corozo buttons in a pale olive.