Got belly? Maybe no belly, or perhaps a little bit of belly.
The always elegant double breasted jacket is not coming back in style, because quite frankly it has never gone out of style, and never will. Stunning in the 1920’s and 30’s, sometimes crude in the 40’s and 50’s, and almost nonexistent in the 60’s. There were some cool examples in the 70’s, and for the most part it was slaughtered in the 80’s with enough shoulder padding to take out any wide receiver running a slant, and button stances low enough to leave buttoned and still be able to relieve one’s self.
Gorgeous double breasted jackets to the true gentleman were always proper, regardless of the decade. The keys to a successful double breast are not terribly varied. There is a ratio of balance and proportion, and this ethos holds true for any physique.
The peak should be high, but not bordering the shoulder line like even some of the better off the peg suits have donned in recent seasons. Too low a peak is inelegant and creates other issues. Too low, there is no opportunity for the lapel to have proper roll, and to have any belly or lack of belly.
Belly refers to the curvature of the lapels outer edges. The consideration of belly, or lack there of comes down to aesthetic preference, determining house style of the particular tailor which in essence comes down to where you are bespeaking the jacket. Anderson & Sheppard as well as A. Caraceni are tailors with distinct double breasted models. Plenty of belly on their respective lapels that have remained generally unchanged.
The problem with many bespoke or custom tailors is that they can be quite generic in terms of executing a double breasted jacket. There is the standard milk white fare that is banal and for the most part wears the man, not the other way around.
These are varied group spanning 60 years. With the exception of the first jacket which has slightly more padding at the shoulder. The remarkable thing is that all the other examples have zero or virtually zero padding at the shoulder, regardless of the year they were made .