60’s CARACENI STYLE

P10309131960’s tailoring was cool, hip, very trad.  Was it elegant?  To me, not quite.

Skinny lapels, sack jackets, short vents, trouser with too high a rise, all just off putting.   The jackets lacked balance, most had nondescript shoulders.  Perhaps, a backlash to the generally rakish 1950’s, the 60’s a style that has been repeated and is currently enjoying its most recent resurgence.  Romeo Gigli and Helmut lang brought their fresh interpretations of 60’s tailoring in the early 90’s, and much more recently Thom Browne has brought his well made tweaked version.

Today’s gambit is a mess.  Too short jackets, too low rises on the trousers and really abominable lapels.

My point is if you’re going to drop $5K to $8K to bespeak your sartorial desires you’re not going with the mad man look.

Paradoxically, I wear today in the frigid cold in the midst of a true blizzard a 1960’s suit.  1962 to be exact.  Why?  Because its absolutely amazing and because its Domenico Caraceni.

A rare example indeed.  It’s cool, hip and in this particular case very elegant.   Skinny never looked this good.  Proper fish mouth notch with proper gorge height.  A skinny lapel with exceptional roll.  Three buttons with dart, jetted bessom pockets, and a center vent.  The ubiquitous barchetta boat shaped breast pocket scaled for ’62.  Double pleated pants that are button-fly and so brilliantly balanced.

This is perfect for today.  A mid-weight flannel with a slightly hard finish.  It’s being sported with a Colombo cashmere scarf, vintage Florentine gloves and equally vintage Norwegian welted Vasque boots.

Basted white thread tuck pleating the lining.

Basted white thread tuck pleating the lining.

 

THE buttonhole.

THE buttonhole.

Button-fly .

Button-fly .

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The Caraceni shoulder.  Essentially no padding and a delicate rope.   Maestro Domenico himself dons this shoulder in some of the rare images of the master.

The Caraceni shoulder. Essentially no padding and a delicate rope. Maestro Domenico himself dons this shoulder in some of the rare images of the master.

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