GIANNI GAMPAGNA: CARACENI DISCIPLE

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Gianni Campagna is a great tailor.  He is also a great business man and merchandiser.  But make no mistake, Gianni Campagna is first and foremost a tailor and a passionate one, and that is where his success lies.  

Is it bespoke?  Glorified made to measure?   

To establish where one can rate Campagna, I can confirm first hand that his work is far superior to any ready-to-wear tailoring, or made to measure that I’ve ever come across.  His stuff is good, really good, bordering on brilliant.  Can you compare it to A. Caraceni?  In some respects yes, but in other ways perhaps not.  The smaller operation of A. Caraceni is more in concert with what one would expect from a pure bespoke bench tailor.  In the early years, Campagna was certainly operating under the auspices of a true bespoke operation.  Even so, today Campagna still turns out less that 1,000 suits per year. With 120 tailors on two seperate premises, Campagna has an operation that is more on par with the likes of Sartoria Attolini in Naples, but he is certainly closer to what would be considered bespoke.

Campagna won the Golden Scissors and Golden Needle awards both before the age of 24.  This is a big deal in Italy and taken quite seriously.  The list of winners through the years is quite impressive.  Campagna apprenticed with the Milanese chapter of Domenico Caraceni, which namesake he now owns.  This fact is important because you can see elements of Caraceni in the finish of his garments, but Campagna has put the Campagna stamp on his work.

The cut of the jacket is elegant and subtle.  There is no severe waist suppression, the amhole is higher but not too high, and there is drape.  The shoulder is pure Milan, gently padded, very soft with slight roped sleeve head.  Barchetta boat shaped breast pocket, a Caraceni trait, is very evident.  The handwork and finish is extensive and exceptional. With a silk lining, the jacket has a very plush feel and seems more proper than a Bemberg lining.

The great self promoter, Gianni claims his jackets require 60 hours to complete.   This is perhaps mythical and certainly disputed by many competitors.   Then there’s the billionaires, and famous actors and dignitaries Mr. Campagna outfits.  This is the stuff I could care less about because to me it’s only the clothing that matters.  Not the hours, although it’s important, or the B.S. about super 500’s, gold thread, diamond buttons and all the other fluff glossy magazines wax on with their worthless articles.

One has to see the clothing and how it works in real life, and Campagna has mastered this.  I’ve seen many gentlemen in their bespoke suits and quite frankly they look bland, or, with less than ideal physiques, they have their tailors over-compensate in the shoulder or hide some other blemish.  Campagna doesn’t do this.  Whether you’re packing a six pack or have 50″ waist, Gianni Campagna can make you look good.  He does this not by building up the shoulder, but rather by following the line of the body instead of fighting it.  

The best model for Gianni Campagna is Gianni Campagana himself.   A gentleman of generous proportions, he is in tune with this and has superb style that does not over compensate or hide anything. He’s just Gianni wearing his clothes to perfection.    

 

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Double breasted three piece suit in a navy birdseye super 150's wool. Six on two with a super high peak.

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Gently padded Milanese shoulder with a subtle rope that flows to a shirt sleeve shoulder.

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Exquisite polo coat in an extraordinary camel hair. Six on three double breasted with hacking style flap pockets and rear inverted box pleat. Beautiful vibrant vegetable corozo buttons complete one of the most majestic of bespoke sartoria one will ever see.

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The peak is masterful creating almost a 90 degree angle when on the body. The peak extends minimally in relation to the collar. Visually very flattering and most elegant. A meticulous boutonniere. Buttonholes that certainly have Caraceni DNA.

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Barchetta boat shaped breast pocket. A Domenico Caraceni invention that has continued to be used by all great Italian sartoria.

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Under collar faced in the same plush camel hair as the coat. The hand picks are perpendicular to the edge and very close together. So precisely executed it looks to be almost finished by machine, but it is certainly done by the hand of an artisan.

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Smoking jacket four on one double breasted with high closure. Super 150's wool file in midnight with black silk grosgrain lapels. All silk charmeuse lining of course set in by hand.

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Single breasted three button three piece in a buttery super 150's flannel. Charcoal Prince of Wales with a tobacco pane.

 

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Waistcoat backing in silk charmeuse lined in a rich cotton shirting.

 

 

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