Davies & Son Shetland Chesterfield

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It’s pretty cold out, but you can have your Moncler, Canada Goose or other mass produced outer wear. I’ll take shetland wool in the form of a coat.

This is a brilliant Davies & Son shetland wool chesterfield. No, there aren’t any logos, just one discreet label on the inside pocket.  I love this piece, the formality of a chesterfield with the casual relaxed feel of pure Scottish shetland wool. What makes this coat so great are the shoulders and the cut. Super soft shoulders with no padding at all, and well cut bodice with slight contour.  The coat is matched with a bespoke Henry Poole single breasted flannel blazer in forest green and a vintage pair of Cordings English made button-fly moleskin pants.  The problem with most ready to wear overcoats is the way the fall over another tailored layer.  If the suit or sport coat has padding, chances are it will be sloppy, ruin the line, or add more bulk and width. In which case you have an inelegant look and unnecessary bulk.

The front view shows how nicely the coat falls.  The coat is over a sport coat and yet there is no added bulk, essentially no shoulder extension, a fairly high armhole, and just slight contour.

 

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On the rear shot the coat in unbuttoned, hence the slight looseness, but notice the collar.  The coat was hastily put on and the sport coat collar was caught and slightly lifting, and yet the coat collar lays on the neck, no lift or give. No fused collar here, no machine padding, this is what hand tailoring is for.

Bespoke is so natural, so relaxing and easy to wear.

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