If you really get hooked on the bespoke life, then you’ll have to go all the way. The overcoat is a true treat and it’s a keeper of a lifetime, and indeed worth every penny.
If you are making the commitment, then Anderson & Sheppard may as well get the nod. And for your first overcoat, the chesterfield sans the velvet collar is the way to go. This is a perfect example of the Anderson & Sheppard chesterfield. Navy in a plush British velour wool that is a dead ringer for cashmere. The pockets are lined with the most exquisite mink like moleskin. Sublime hand work, and of course the requisite surgeon cuffs.
So what makes the A&S chesterfield so great? What else, the fit the cut, yes the cut. This is one of the only overcoats I’ve seen that works over a suit or sport coat, just as easily as over a cashmere v-neck. There are no shoulder pads, the shoulder seam is hand sewn and the effect is pure and natural. The shoulder goes where it’s supposed to, supple with just a slight rope. This coat easily accomodates an A&S suit and will be more than gracious on a Neapolitan number, or even a Huntsman with a slightly different pitched shoulder.
In terms of versatility, put together a 3-ply cashmere Ballantyne v-neck with a Frank Foster gingham check, and the right jeans with a pair of Cleverley Chelsea boots, and you will bring casual elegance to a new level. When it’s cold out, don’t give me a down jacket with a logo or some military garb, or pseudo hip street wear. Even with jeans, I’m doing the chesterfied.