As far as bespoke double breasted jackets goes, Anderson & Sheppard is the benchmark.
Stiffness and double breasted don’t match well. You need a soft canvas, you need drape, and you need proper lapels, all of which A&S delivers.
Anderson & Sheppard’s lapels are sensual. Proper outer curvature that doesn’t compete with the torso. Sweeping and fluid with a flattering symmetry that shows the right amount of the under lapel on the cross over. Six on two closure, the weight and the roll on the bottom of the lapel is slightly covering the fastened button (never button both buttons, not elegant). The lapels are alive, they are breathing. Simply perfect.
A&S’s slightly fuller chest and slightly contoured waist completes the total look of a proper double breast. Soft shoulders with virtually no padding. The combination is unbeatable. This blazer was bespoken in 1985 and looks as fresh today as the day delivery was taken. The 80’s were not kind to the double breasted jacket. Improper gorges and shoulder pads to plow your way to a first down were the culprits. But places like Anderson & Sheppard would have none of it, simply because Anderson & Sheppard jackets are not fashionable, and they wouldn’t have it any other way.