Anderson & Sheppard is in the house. House tweed that is. This sublime sport coat was made in 1982 in one of Anderson & Sheppard’s exclusive house tweeds. This jacket has been to four continents, worn with gray flannels, moleskins, khakis, cords, and of course denim. It has been worn and worn and worn, and the jacket is still in close to perfect condition. The middle button is a bit frayed, but there are no repairs. This is a true testament to the greatness of Anderson & Sheppard when they’re on top of their game.
Some of Anderson & Sheppard’s best work was turned out in the 1980’s. Superbly finished, the pieces are fresh and can’t be dated. This is as Anderson & Sheppard as it gets. It starts with a slightly higher collar, a very flattering slanting shoulder pitch, and a slightly curved shoulder seam. There is zero shoulder padding and very soft tailoring throughout, including feather light canvassing. The shoulder line comes right to the edge, no extension. The darts are shifted closer to the side seams, which is generally standard on all A&S coats. This detail gives an elegant contour, more of a natural suppression. The shifting of darts is an element that was adopted by Florentine tailors early on as well.
The front quarters open the right amount. The side vents are not too flared. The notch is very pleasing to the eye, and it is masterful. This is where balance and proportion come in. Too high a gorge or too low a gorge and you will lose the essence of what Anderson & Sheppard is.
Navy Chalk Stripe circa 1983 in hard finish mid-weight flannel.
Upon examining these garments you will notice an important detail that is paramount to the A&S coat. The shoulder seams and the side seams are sewn by hand. Tiny little stitches done by hand. The work done by hand contributes to the softness, and it is what made the jacket “break in” and mold to the body over time. Soft tailoring needs hand work. Hand work that can’t be faked.
When it comes to peal lapels, single or double breasted, Anderson & Sheppard owns it. No one else does the peak like A&S. It is often copied, but the copies are never quite right. What makes the lapel so special is the higher peak. The higher peak gives more outer edge, and allows for a sweeping drape across the chest. The lapels are very fluid and very natural.
The lapels on this single breasted two button black and gray nail head is a fine example. This suit was executed in 1985 for an Italian nobleman. Slight variations to the standard A&S fare on this suit include a more standard placement of the dart and a slightly more rounded shoulder. There is still no padding, but there is a slightly different pitch. The sewing and finish on this jacket is sheer perfection.