Ferdinando Caraceni is alive and well. Under the tutelage of his daughter Nicoletta, the house produces prodigious garments that are perhaps closer to Domenico Caraceni’s DNA, more than anyone else, although not related to the Caracenis. He trained with several masters, eventually cutting for Augusto Caraceni before setting out on his own.
I call him Prince Ferdinando, because Domenico was the King. That being said, Ferdinando was a dashing gentleman and was the best billboard for his namesake. He wore a double breast like no one else. So natural and extremely elegant. Its the high armhole, the slim bodice with no bellowing of the chest. Really the only way to wear the double breast.
Double breasted could be so overpowering or rakish. Heavy shoulder padding or extended shoulders don’t help the matter. This Ferdinando Caraceni is a masterful example of what the double breast should be. The proportions are perfect. There are some similarities with an A. Caraceni double breast and that of a Ferdinando. Both have gently padded shoulders with subtle roped sleeve heads adhering to the Milanese sentiment. The lapels have similar belly or curvature. A Caraceni peaks which sometimes extends more than Ferdinando and the degree of peak has more variations. Also distinct on the A. Caraceni on occasion is when the jacket is striped the striping will be less parallel to the outer edge of the lapel.
The Ferdinand Caraceni double breast is still truly one of the most flattering examples to be had. Exhausting superlatives, you bet. It’s a jacket that’s masculine, elegant, very sexy, yet understated. To be sexy and be dressed as a true gentleman, FC is difficult to match. They’re still around and they have not veered. They’re not concerned with branding, and their operation is small and all in house. True heritage with low production, what bespoke should be.
The Ferdinand peak is brilliant, always consistent, always the proper amount of separation from the collar. Ferdinand Caraceni is a proper bench made jacket, always hand padded.
What’s quite intriguing about this example is that it was executed for a 35 short gentleman, and the scale and proportions are just perfect. Many celebrated and quite revered tailors often miss the mark when the scale is out of the general range of the standard size. It still looks brilliant in this smaller size, but can’t button on the standard form creating its own sprazzatura.
All the elements of a great sartoria bearing a most legendary name still going strong. Viva Ferdiando Caraceni.